Published: Aug. 23, 2015

Photo Essay by Holly Gayley

The largest Buddhist institution on the Tibetan plateau can be found in nomadic areas of northern Kham, tucked in a valley just off the main road. Larung Buddhist Academy is an ecumenical institute focused on a monastic curriculum of scholastic study and home to well over ten thousand monks and nuns. Emerging as an encampment in the early 1980s, it was established as a Buddhist academy in 1987 by Khenpo Jigme Phuntsok (1933–2004), a towering figure in the revitalization of Buddhism in the post-Mao era, with the help of the Tenth Paṇchen Lama. Over the past three decades, Larung Buddhist Academy (also known as Larung Gar) has played an important role in revitalizing monastic scholasticism among the Nyingma and Kaygu traditions in eastern Tibet.

In addition, Larung Buddhist Academy is now the epicenter of an ethical reform movement spreading in nomadic areas surrounding Serta since at least 2010. One of Khenpo Jigme Phuntsok's principal successors, Khenpo Tsultrim Lodrö (who visited CU Boulder in April 2015) has spearheaded this movement, and its implementation is being conducted by local monasteries in the region through mass vow-taking ceremonies. I discuss this movement in my article, "Reimagining Buddhist Ethics on the Tibetan Plateau" in the Journal of Buddhist Ethics (2013)  and the controversy it has sparked in "Controversy over Buddhist Ethical Reform" in the latest issue of the journal Himalaya (2016).

This photo essay shows the grand scale of Larung Buddhist Academy, with separate three-story buildings containing the respective assembly halls and classrooms for monks and nuns, thousands of monastic residences scattered across its hillsides, and the shimmering "magical illusion" (sgyu 'phrul) temple at the top of the ridge. I trace a route from Golok to the north, which I have traversed numerous times in the past ten years in visiting monasteries in the region. The photos begin in the county seat of Padma and follow a dirt road through the grasslands until reaching Serta and finally Larung Buddhist Academy.

For the latest news on Larung Buddhist Academy, visit Radio Free Asia.

 

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Journey to Larung Buddhist Academy

Stupa at County Seat in Padma
Stupa at County Seat in Padma

This large stupa stands at Silethang, the seat of Padma County, where residents visit to circumambulate and recite prayers.

Mani Stones next to the Stupa
Mani Stones next to the Stupa

Stones with mantras and prayers encraved on them are heaped next to the stupa.

Road near County Seat
Road near the Seat of Padma County

Near Silethang, a monk on a motorcyle turns off the main road to traverse alongside the Mar River.

Mountain Pass on Road from Padma to Serta
Mountain Pass on Road from Padma to Serta

A mountain pass along the road between Padma and Serta Counties with views as far as the Nyenpo Yutse mountain range.

Black Tent on the Grasslands
Black Tent on the Grasslands

A nomadic black tent on the grasslands along the road with a Tibetan mastiff standing guard.

CU Professor on the Grasslands
CU Professor on the Grasslands

En route Holly Gayley in Religious Studies takes a stroll along the grasslands.

Plaza in County Seat at Serta
Plaza in County Seat at Serta

This is the main plaza in the county seat at Serta with local shops around the perimeter.

Serta Street Scene
Serta Street Scene

Nomads load goods onto a tractor to transport home.

Sacred Mountain with Prayer Flags
Sacred Mountain with Prayer Flags

Along the road from Serta to Larung Buddhist Academy is this small sacred mountain, covered in prayer flags.

Outside the Gate to Larung Gar
Outside the Gate to Larung Gar

A young Tibetan rides a horse nearby the gate to Larung Buddhist Academy (also known as Larung Gar).

Walking up the Hillside into Larung Gar
Walking up the Hillside into Larung Gar

Larung Gar opened to foreigners sometime around 2010, after having restricted access for almost a decade.

New Jomo Lhakhang
New Jomo Lhakhang

Nuns worked for years on the construction of this three-story main assembly, which survived a 2014 fire in nearby nun's residences.

Nuns Walking Home
Nuns Walking Home

Nuns walking back to their residences after a day of practice and study.

Nuns in their Quarters
Nuns in their Quarters

A group of nuns in the private residence of Tsogyal (left) reciting mantras in front of the shrine.

Nun's Shrine at Larung Gar
Nun's Shrine at Larung Gar

Private shrine in a nun's residence, replete with photographs of major Buddhist teachers including Khenpo Jigme Phuntsok.

Monastic Residences on the Hillside
Monastic Residences Along the Hillside

Residences for monks and nuns line the hills on all sides of the valley at Larung Gar.

Panorama of Larung Gar
Panorama of Larung Gar

Panorama of Larung Gar with the Jutrul (or "magical illusion") Temple at the crest of the ridge.

Jutrul Temple at Larung Gar
Jutrul Temple at Larung Gar

The distinctive Jutrul Temple stands at the crest of the ridge overlooking Larung Buddhist Academy.

Circumambulating the Jutrul Temple
Circumambulating the Jutrul Temple

Monastics and laity alike visit the Jutrul Temple in order to circumambulate it as a merit-making practice.

Commemorative Statue of Khenpo Jigme Phuntsok
Commemorative Statue of Khenpo Jigme Phuntsok

Above the Main Assembly Hall for monks is a commemorative shrine dedicated to Khenpo Jigme Phuntsok with this life-like statue.
 

Monks Emerging from Main Lhakhang
Monks Emerging from Main Lhakhang

Monks taking a mid-day break in their practice and study, emerging from the Main Assembly Hall (or lhakhang).

Yaks Grazing near Larung Gar
Yaks Grazing near Larung Gar

In a nearby valley, yaks graze on the hillside.