II. Trouble-Shooting Techniques:

• A. Bus will not start:
  • 1. Make sure the gear shift is in the "neutral" position (shift out and back in)

    2. The emergency door "interlock" must be disengaged on conventionals

    3. The rear door must be closed, and rear window latched in Transit buses

    4. In transits, check that the engine cut-off switch in engine compartment is on.

    5. On the conventionals, The "engine stop" lever must be pushed in

    6. Dead battery due to electrics (radio, lights, fans) left on

     

  B. Electrical systems will not work:

  • 1. Dead battery; loose cable on battery

    2. Bad fuse

    3. "Master" switch not turned on

    4. Belt problems. Broken belts are indicated by changes in sound and a loss of charging indication and/or overheating

    5. Coil wires. Engine quits abruptly (24 passenger vans only)

    6. Spark plug wires loose (24 passenger vans only). Engine begins to miss, losing power

    7. On conventionals, the engine will run with the key off. If the key is off, all electrics will appear dead. Check to insure key is on.

     

  C. Air Buzzer goes off:

  • 1. leak in air system. Check all hoses and fittings. The conventionals have a valve on the driver's side of the fire wall in the engine compartment that, when turned off, may temporarily solve the problem if the leak is in the shutter hoses

    2. Stuck air tank valve. During cold weather, the outside valve underneath the bus that regulates tank pressure may stick open due to moisture. Draining the tanks after each run should prevent this. A frozen valve may be thawed with a heat gun from the shop.

  * Note: If air brakes lose all air pressure during operation, the rear brakes will automatically lock-up. Any temporary fix must be adequate for compressor to charge the system to 120 lb. and cut off. If compressor runs continuously or does not build pressure do not drive. Find a safe place to pull over immediately.

• D. Emergency buzzer goes off:
  • 1. Rear emergency door may be open or latch may be stuck

    2. The red latches on the emergency windows may have popped loose.

     

  E. Overheating:

  • 1. Make sure the radiator has adequate coolant.

    2. During mountain runs on hot summer days, the bus may overheat; in this case pull over and let the bus cool down. Then open all heater valves in the engine compartment and run the interior fans to help dissipate engine heat.

    3. Coolant leak. Minor leaks may be repaired by tightening clamps or temporarily repaired with duct tape.

    4. Shutters on the conventional diesel radiators not open. Close the air valve on the fire wall to shut air off to shutters.

     

  F. Flat tire:

  If you are within radio range of the TC, simply call in, we'll send another bus. Normally we don't keep spares or tire changing tools on the buses, however if you are on an extended trip, and/or the TC is closed, proceed as follows:

  • 1. Only attempt to change a tire in an extreme emergency and never by yourself!!!

    2. If flat is on one of rear duels the bus can still be driven under 30 mph. If you are on route, drive in and get another bus;

    3. If the flat is on a front wheel, use one of the rear duels to replace it;

    4. To change a tire you must have the proper tools. These are not always on a bus for local use. If you have an extended trip, check with the TC and make sure you get them from the garage before you head out.

    5. On long trips, assistance for tire problems can be obtained at county maintenance shops or at school district bus yards.

    6. Always check tire pressures before your run. There is a gauge in the bus box and on the hose. (Transits: 90lbs. all around; Conventionals: 90lbs. front and 85lbs. rear)

Home Mail Search Help/Info

If you have comments or questions about this site please contact Barbara Sensiba.

Last updated on 7/10/96.