Flash from a Cyborg Classroom: 1/3
There is a moment–it occurs when the shrouds
and flesh have burned from the body–that the corpse sits up a bit,
curled by the heat. The skull–its empty eyes trained on eternity–mouth
agape, shakes the universe with its silent laughter.
Several years ago I spent a night in no-man’s
land. It was the area in the Bangkok airport for those who have officially
left one country, but have yet to reach another. Having just departed
from Kathmandu, I was returning home from several months’ travel.
Curling my body around the arms of waiting room chairs, I tried to
find sleep. As difficult as it was to get comfortable, what kept me
awake was the presence of television. I hadn’t seen TV for several
months. The experience was nothing like finding a familiar comfort
after a long absence. Rather, I experience this TV as an incessant
flashing light, an emergency vehicle demanding attention. I couldn’t
focus on the images, only on the flashes. I began to count the interval
between flashes, the duration of scenes. One, two, flash. One, two
flash. One, flash. One, two, three flash. I couldn’t seem to get past
three or maybe four. With each flash, I was dumped into an entirely
new setting. I had to orient myself visually and aurally to the whole
scene, take in the action of that scene, connect it with the previous
scenes, and do all this within the count of one two three. I couldn’t
do it. I could only see flashing lights. But I couldn’t stop looking.
I had awakened the day of this one night
in Bangkok, as I had for many days, to the distinctive Kathmandu morning
sounds and feels. Through the cool fog came the tinkling of prayer
bells and the harsh sound of people hacking and spitting, clearing
their throats and lungs of the ageless dust of dung and ash–the common
denominators of all living things–in the effort to enable themselves
another day’s breath of life. Climbing to the rooftop, I peered through
the mist to the roof next door. Sitting beneath a banner decorated
with soot-dirtied grey prayer-flags–once red, white, yellow, and green–my
neighbor sat cross-legged hunched over papers from which he chanted
his morning prayers.
Weeks earlier flying into Kathmandu, a
wave of excitement had rippled through the cabin as someone cried
out "Everest." Tears rolled down my cheek as I crossed the
aisle, invited by a stranger to take her seat by the window so I could
see the dark triangle peak, so large yet so small below us. We all
looked to each other and spoke in languages we didn’t understand to
acknowledge the magnitude of this moment. For weeks I trod the ancient
pathways around the great mountains always looking up, endlessly up,
gathering in some hint of the majesty of the highest mountains on
earth. Though sick, thin as a prison camp inmate, and chilled to the
bone, I felt profoundly joyous. Each day my spirit, my sense of being
alive, rose with the elevation. Trekking in a snow storm over a pass
at 18,000 feet I saw my death and danced for joy, a great exhilarating
body-warming dancing. I turned the prayer-wheels as I walked through
every village, doing my small part for the universe. Back in Kathmandu
the streets teemed with life and death, everything a part of the endless
cycle; the dust of dung and funeral ash inhaled with every breath
of life.