Larung Gar

One day late in May of 2001, my friend Deb and I arrived in Seda, Amdo, Tibet. We had driven all day from Aba. After dinner we returned to the guest house only to meet Gyrume Dorge, the author of our most referred to guide to Tibet, The Footprint Guide. 

Gyurme informed us that he had visited Larung Gar monastery that day. We were interested in what he had to say for we would go there the next morning. He told us of the police force present there. He also told us of being restricted to a few sites in this very large campus of monastery buildings. He had been escorted by the police, perhaps because he was the author of this very popular book. We were warned of what to expect.  

The next morning we proceeded to the monastery. As we approached up a narrow valley we were amazed at the size of the monastery. I took several photos by holding the camera up above the window of the jeep only briefly, being concerned about any police or informants seeing me. As we drove in we cold see many monks and nuns out and about. We were all apprehensive, not knowing what waited for us. (We had already been turned away from Kirtin gompa in Aba and held under house arrest in the guest house till we left the next morning.) 

We arrived at the small car park to find four police jeeps. Deb asked our guide Penpa what we should do. He said that we would set out and see what happens. A few steps from the jeep a policeman stopped us. He began talking to Penpa in Tibetan. We would hear a detailed account later but something more interesting was about to take place right before our eyes.  

From behind the policeman a group of nuns came toward us; they were helping a sick nun walk. She was on IV for we could see the bottle being held up by one of her helpers. She was in pain was able to walk only with help from several of her fellow nuns. Why had we been allowed to see this?  Or were they showing us something? We don't know.  

After the restrictions were explained to us; no photography and no talking to monks, we walked up to the stupa. After making a few circumambulations we stopped for a brief rest. It was then that we noticed a nun being carried in a litter. We don't know what had happened to her but we have our suspicions for we would hear more later. 

We then returned to the car and left the monastery. At the base of the valley we decided to have lunch in a small village. While waiting for the meal our guide, Penpa, asked around about what was going on at the monastery. The Chinese authorities were forcing the monastery to reduce the number of monks and nuns by approximately 90%. We heard some varying estimates but a reasonable figure was that of 14,000 at present. They wanted to have only 1,400 total of monks and nuns. 

Apparently the officials were torturing nuns and monks that were resisting being expelled. While we were getting this news a group of nuns came walking thru town. One nun was being carried because she could not walk. She had been tortured also. We left shortly afterward.  

This incident occured early in a three and half week trip from Chengu to Lhasa thru Amdo and Kham. As we travelled to more monasteries we heard increasing reports of 'reducing' monasteries and controlling the stronger monasteries. It is my understanding that the Chinese are concerned about the areas where the influence of the monasteries is strong over the local population. Without knowing the situation in detail in each area it is hard to know for certain what each incident involves. But we did see a trend thoughout monasteries of any size or importance of increased control and decreased size by the Chinese authorities.  

On several occasions during this trip we were held in various levels of house arrest. The first mentioned earlier in Aba. Later in Chamdo and finally in Nakchu. We would hear thru our guide about things we had done during our day. Or that we had been seen someplace. So we were often concerned about spies and what affect our actions would have on the people we encountered.  Deb and I had brought along some toys to give away to children. One day in Chamdo when Penpa returned from the People's Security Branch office, he gave us the terms of our 'house arrest' and the order that we stop giving toys to Tibetan children.